GFS Choir Travelogue: Ten Days in Estonia

This article was originally published in the Summer 2025 issue of the GFS Bulletin.

Over the 2025 spring break, the GFS Choir and faculty chaperones embarked on a 10-day performance tour of Estonia. The 43-person group visited four cities— Haapsalu, Viljandi, Tartu, and Tallinn, the capital—performed in multiple concerts; attended clinics with peer ensembles and local conductors; and visited castles, museums, and festival grounds.

The GFS Choir travels every three years; this Upper School tradition dates back to 1956, when choir director Mary Brewer accompanied the choir on a singing tour across France, Germany, England, Wales, and Ireland. In the decades since, GFS’ choir has visited nations around the globe, including Romania, Sweden, Canada, China, and many others.

Why Estonia? Anne Hess, Director of Upper School Choir and Chorus, chose this tiny Northern European country because choral music is woven into the fabric of its history and culture—in a nation of 1.37 million people, there are more than 700 official choirs.

During the country’s quest for independence in the 1980s, choral tradition provided the backbone of the resistance. A number of GFS’ choir members learned about Estonia’s “Singing Revolution” in eighth grade, and they further prepared by learning Estonian songs, which they performed at a pre-tour send-off concert at GFS, and across their travels. 

Here is an abbreviated account of the tour, as shared by Hess:

Day 1: We made it to beautiful Haapsalu and were greeted by a vibrant, serene sunset. After eating, many of us visited the spa, and then settled in for the night. We have a busy first full day tomorrow and will be singing our first concert on Hiiumaa Island, joined by a local high school choir.

Day 2: We had a hard time coming down from the big, celebratory energy of tonight's concert in Kärdla Church, a lovely space with resonant acoustics for singing. The choir was deeply committed to each performance, and gained so much from the positive connection with the Estonian audiences, who are effusive in their applause and appreciation!

Day 5: As of this evening, we have visited three towns and sung three concerts. Tomorrow, we head to the capital city of Tallinn. The sites we’ve visited are both ancient and modern, like the ruins of the 13th-century Viljandi Castle contrasted with the very modern Estonian National Museum in Tartu.

Day 6: Today, we experienced the adventurous life of Estonian Vikings at the Viking Village, then traveled to Tallinn, where we will be for the remainder of the tour. Students had some nice free time this afternoon at the hotel, and many took advantage of the spa and sauna culture that is hugely popular here.

Day 7: We started our day off with a 90-minute workshop with an esteemed Estonian choral director, Külli Kiivet. She brought a lot of energy and a fresh perspective to our music-making!

We also visited the VABAMU, the Museum of Occupations and Freedom. Its permanent exhibition, “Freedom Without Borders” tells the story of occupation, resistance, and recovery in Estonia since World War II. An installation at the end represents the delicate balance between freedom and responsibility.

 

Day 8: This morning began with glorious weather and a trip to the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (the Lauluväljak) on which the Estonian song festival, Laulupidu, is held every five years. The next one is this July!

Just for fun, we sang the “Benediction” on the massive stage—it is amazing how the carefully crafted acoustics amplify outdoor singing. It’s a true feat of design and engineering.

The kids have been passing out concert flyers and inviting so many people to our concert. That, plus the incredible organization and connections of our favorite Estonian organist and amazing guide, Ulla, yielded an audience a few hundred strong for our final concert.  

Day 9: It's been a wonderful journey, and the last night of the tour has arrived. Today began with a visit to the Arvo Pärt Center. Pärt is Estonia's most famous composer and it's a big year for him, as he is turning 90. We were fortunate enough to sing one of his pieces in the performance hall there. Some brave souls climbed to the top of the observation tower for a view of the forest and the Baltic Sea. 

We had our farewell dinner at the Old Hansa, a medieval restaurant in the Old City that serves authentic food cooked using 15th-century recipes and methods. There was also traditional medieval music and a lot of celebratory singing on our part. Tomorrow, we head home!